Tiger's Nest Bhutan

11 Days road trip| DELHI-BHUTAN|4000 KMS ON WHEEL

Have you ever heard about the country measuring its success with the happiness of the people? Yes, you are right Bhutan. Bhutan has continuously been ranked as the happiest country maintaining its cultural and environmental identities. So we decided on our next road trip from Delhi to Bhutan. It was altogether a sudden program when one of our friends asked us about it. At first, we were apprehensive but later we agreed and believe me it was a very good decision. Road Trip from Delhi to Bhutan has been the longest till now.

On the way to Bhutan

LET’S KNOW BHUTAN BETTER

We all know that Bhutan is one of our neighboring countries, sharing boundaries with Sikkim, West Bengal, Assam & Arunachal Pradesh of India. The total area of Bhutan is around 38,000 sq km which is approximately 86 times smaller than that of India but its population is around 8 lakhs only.

Bhutan is mostly mountainous with few valleys. It is a Buddhist country famous for its monasteries, dzongs and landscape. Thimpu is its capital but its international airport is located in Paro. Its main source of livelihood depends on agriculture but on the other hand, it sells hydroelectricity to India.

Entry gates Thimpu and Phuentsholing

Bhutan is a no honking country and they don’t have traffic signals. Yes true, it means people are not allowed to honk while driving within the city limits. Although Indian driving license is valid in Bhutan, in case if you are taking your own vehicle to Bhutan then you need to take the proper permission from their RTO, once during your visit, which is easy to get if you have all your vehicle documents, insurance of your vehicle, driving license and proper id proof. Bhutan has very strict driving rules and people follow them.

HUMAN TRAFFIC SIGNAL

There is a very famous crossing where the policeman acts as a traffic signal giving you signals while dancing. Apart from that, you will not find any traffic signals or traffic lights anywhere in Bhutan.

Human dancing traffic light at Thimpu, Bhutan
Human dancing traffic light at Thimpu, Bhutan

Bhutan’s economy depends 60% on agriculture but on the other hand, Bhutan’s only 8% of the land is cultivable. Rice and potato are their staple food. We got so amazed to know that their total agriculture is organic, means they don’t use harmful fertilizers and pesticides, which is so healthy. Bhutan also aims to become became the first completely organic country in the world.

Bhutan’s currency is Ngultrum which is almost equal to rupee value. But Indian currency, which is rupees is readily accepted in Bhutan.

Bhutan is a constitutional monarch country which means, The King is the head of the state but the executive powers are headed by the Prime Minister. We ourselves have witnessed how much they respect their King, so much so that each house has their King’s photo at an entrance or in their living room. Moreover while visiting Thimpu we have also asked not to even see towards the Kings home. Must say Bhutanese treat their Kind as God.

Bhutan’s culture is strongly based on Buddhism. And people also lay strong emphasis on the preservation and promotion of their heritage, local customs, and religion. Their National dress is compulsory in all the offices during office hours whereas other than that you are allowed to wear whatever you want. Even the visitors cannot enter their dzongs/monasteries if they don’t wear proper dress. Shorts above knees and sleeveless dresses are a strict no. Though traditional but people are allowed to choose their life partners.

Bhuddha StatueThimpu Bhutan
Bhuddha StatueThimpu Bhutan

ROAD TRIP FROM DELHI TO BHUTAN IN A NUTSHELL

There are 3 borders between India and Bhutan open for tourists but we chose the Jaigaon – Phuentsholing as it is the primary border to enter Bhutan

When we decided on a road trip, For 11 days we were on the wheels and followed the below route. Delhi – Gorakhpur- Siliguri – Jaigaon/psushtaling- Thimpu – Punakha- Paro – Haa- Jaigaon – Siliguri –Lucknow- Delhi.

Jaigaon – Phuentsholing Jaigaon is the town on the Indian side whereas Phuentsholing in on the Bhutanese side.

The below sketch can give you a detailed idea about how we plan to travel on the road from Delhi to Bhutan. It was our first and longest road trip with kids onboard so it was really challenging. But we succeeded and since then we have done many other long road trips. Delhi-Kanyakumari, Bangalore to Delhi, etc.

Our travel preperation

ENTRY INTO BHUTAN

Entry to Bhutan is through a big massive traditional gate. An Indian national can go inside and travel around 5Kms without any permission so many of the local people go inside.

For tourists, there is a government office in Phuentsholing where an Indian National needs to apply on the form given, and only after your verification and proper documentation you are allowed to go beyond the checkpoint. It takes approximately 1 to 2 hrs for permission. For Indian nationals intending to visit Bhutan are required to carry any of the two valid ‘Travel Documents’

(a) Valid Indian Passport having validity of minimum 6 months;

OR

(b) Voter Identity Card, issued by the Election Commission of India.

No Visa is required to visit Bhutan. But if you want you can ask for the ticket visa

Tourists can visit the main cities like Thimpu & Paro. Special permits are however required to visit towns other from Thimphu and Paro, like Bhumtang, Haa, Punakha, etc.

Bhutan
Bhutan

TOURISM IN BHUTAN( OVER THE YEARS)

Tourism being one of the major sources of economy, below are the trends in a nutshell.

  • The gradual increase in no of tourists over the years. 2018 saw a growth rate of 7.61% over 2017.
  • The majority of international arrivals to Bhutan have preferred air as their mode of transportation whereas while regional arrivals used land.
  • 87% of the total visitors visited Bhutan for leisure/holiday purposes.
  • Maximum arrivals have been recorded during the month of May and October
  • India is the major source market with a share of 69.9% whereas The Republic of Korea with least share of 0.36% only.
  • Festivals remain one of the most visited attractions in the country.
  • Thimpu and Paro receive maximum visitors with 20% and 32% respectively.
  • Bumdra Trek and Druk Path treks are among the favorites for trekking.
  • The majority of the visitors to Bhutan undertakes some form of cultural activity.
  • Tourists spend an average of 7 days in Bhutan.
  • There are a total of 271 tourist accommodation facilities which include 136-star hotels(3,4 & 5-star hotels) & 135 village homestays.
View from Gangtey Palace Hotel Paro Bhutan
View from Gangtey Palace Hotel Paro Bhutan

FEEL THE EXPERIENCE

To have a realtime experience, watch the below video

HOW WE TRAVELLED ON A ROAD TRIP FROM DELHI TO BHUTAN

It was June 2016 and we started our journey at around 3.30 in the morning. Our first stoppage was Gorakhpur which is almost 13 hrs drive. We had our homemade breakfast somewhere after Agra at J P Om Dhaba at around 8.30 and had lunch near Faizabad. Highways were good especially around Lucknow and towards Gorakhpur.

We didn’t have any clue that we will pass near Ayodhya as well otherwise we would have planned to visit that as well. But this is how you learn many lessons. We reached Gorakhpur around 4.30 in the evening and just relaxed.

We stayed at Hotel Vivek in Gorakhpur which was right in the center of the city. The overall experience was ok only as it had a big ground in front of the kids to play around and enjoy but the rooms were not so well maintained. We only had to spend the night so we didn’t bother much.

Since we were to cross Bihar the next day we were a bit afraid, afraid in the sense that we were not sure about the roads and the kind of people so we decided that we will buy bread, butter, and jam for the next day so that we don’t have to stop much.

Dochula Pass, Thimpu-Punakha Highway Bhutan
Dochula Pass, Thimpu-Punakha Highway Bhutan

OUR PERSPECTIVE CHANGED ABOUT BIHAR

Our next stop was Siliguri(West Bengal) which is again 13 hrs drive and that too via Bihar. Our trip route was via North-East corridor. We again started at 4 AM in the morning. The road was awesome, moreover, the North West Corridor is superb. It’s really world-class with proper barricading, greenery, dividers, lights. It was at par with Delhi Agra express Highway.

We stopped near Darbhanga at a Punjabi Dhaba(adjoining the petrol pump)to have our breakfast and for the cars to take their breakfast too (Diesel of course). The owner and the staff there were really nice to talk to. Their refreshing tea is a must for all.

Learning Archery, Bhutan's National Game
Learning Archery, Bhutan’s National Game

While driving we come across a signboard and an arrow saying Madhubani 16km, surprised, I just opened the internet and got to know that we just crossed a place which is so renowned for its paintings yes Madhubani paintings and we just missed another place.

To reach Siliguri we had to take a divert from the North- East corridor to a State Highway and that was when we got a glimpse of rural Bihar. It was so green, farms and Bamboo cultivation all around we just couldn’t refrain ourselves to get down and enjoy. We have never expected our ride through Bihar to be so good. So much of greenery all around and good roads were really unexpected.

We saw the threshing machine of corn, so just thought of stopping by to have good experience for kids. Even the villagers have kept their corn on the road to dry.

Tea Plantation and Corn Threshing on Highways
Tea Plantation and Corn Threshing on Highways

Just around Bagdogra, we saw a signboard marking Nepal left- 20 Kms. We got confused. It was a busy road so we couldn’t stop. Again we took the help of Google to learn that there is an India-Nepal border nearby only around 20 Kms. Yes, once again it showed a lack of proper study before such a big road trip.

We reached Siliguri around 5 in the evening and stayed in a hotel in the city center which was just ok. We were tired but to try their famous food we went to try momos. They had a wide variety of momos to try from.

BHUTAN THROUGH OUR EYES

The next day again we started at around 6.30 AM as we have to reach Jaigaon by 9 AM. We reached Jaigaon on time, by the time our paperwork was done and pics clicked and permit given it was already 11.30 AM. Although we should reach Thimpu by 4.30 PM in order to take the permission to move towards Bhumtang the next morning as we have to attend a festival their but luck didn’t favour and we just missed the deadline by half an hour because of heavy rains, no visibility, hilly drive, strict traffic rules, and no google.

We were all depressed as all our plans seemed to collapse but Wind Horse people were so helpful that their Bhutan representative helped us to redesign our itinerary with minimal impact on our pockets. Rajat from Wind Horse Tours helped us throughout, planning was ours and they helped us to execute it to perfection.

You can reach Wind Horse’ Indian office @ Mr. Rajat # 09560427013 or can get more details from https://www.windhorsetours.com/india/

ALL AROUND THIMPU

Thimpu is the capital of Bhutan. Being the capital, King’s home, it is the hub of administration as well. Apart from Taj, Le Meridien many other hotels and resorts are there.

Hotel Phuentsho Pelri, Thimpu Bhutan
Hotel Phuentsho Pelri, Thimpu Bhutan

We stayed in Hotel Phuentsho Pelri. It was a very beautiful hotel and traditional as well. We do not have much time to explore Thimpu but somehow could manage to feel. Thimpu is famous for its nightlife as well as it has many pubs and disco but we couldn’t enjoy that part because of kids.

The next day we enjoyed our morning walk on Thimpu streets and later went to the Zoo, National Memorial Chorten, Thimpu Dzong, and Folk Heritage Museum, Buddha Stupa. In the evening we went to watch the Archery competition which is their National Sports.

Things to see around in Thimpu, Bhutan
Zoo, Memorial Chorten, Local activity in Thimpu BHutan

TO PUNAKHA

Punakha is around 85 km and 2.5 hrs drive from Thimpu. We reached Punakha at around 2 PM as there are always some ups and downs which happens. Yes, this time our friend’s car got punctured. But wait, whatever happens, happen for good. It allowed us to visit a local market which had all kinds of shops from sports to spare parts, cloths to an eatery. It also gave us a chance to interact with locals and shopping of course.

Riverside Camping,Punakha Bhutan
Riverside Camping, Punakha Bhutan

Riverside camping and rafting were planned for Punakha. Wind horse organized that camping for us along with an attendant and cook. Riverside camping, silence all around, riverside walk, bonfire, throwing stones in the river means just doing nothing except solace and sheer joy. It was our first camping experience.

Kids couldn’t wait for rafting so we have to go for rafting in the evening only. Kids enjoyed their dip in the chilling water as well after the rafting. The whole night it was raining but fortunately stopped in the morning. The next day we visited Punakha Dzong and started towards Haa where our Homestay experience awaits.

Rafting Punakha, Bhutan
Rafting Punakha, Bhutan

HAA

The drive to Haa was mesmerizing since not many tourists visit this place, the road was all ours. No place to eat en route. Haa has the Indian Army Camp. It’s in close proximity to the Indo China border. It’s a valley town and away from the hustle-bustle from a city.

OUR HOMESTAY EXPERIENCE

We were delighted the way our hosts took care of us. They showed us the rooms decorated with their local style. They prepared the food and we all sat together eating the traditional “Ema Tashi” and red rice and a few other local dishes.

Haa Homestay, Bhutan
Haa Homestay, Bhutan

We went around to see their local farm, cowshed, and a small village walk. Kids also went with the host’s son to play Archery their national game and learned few basics. After breakfast we headed towards Paro.

Haa to Paro its only 65 Kms but the beauty is that we have to pass the Chele-la Pass which is the highest motorable pass of Bhutan(3988 Mtrs). The view from the pass is breathtaking and clouds all around, cold wind &sudden showers send shivers down the bone. It’s a beautiful place to visit.

Chelela la Pass, Bhutan
Chelela Pass, Bhutan

PARO

Road to Paro gives you a birds-eye view of the International Airport of Bhutan. Kids got to see the landing and taking off the flights right in the middle of the mountains. Druk Airways is the official air carrier of Bhutan.

Paro Airport and around Bhutan
Paro Airport and around Bhutan

In Paro we stayed at Gangtey Palace Hotel, I must admit it’s a beautiful hotel with a breathtaking view, its location, its view, and rooms, garden, services were all fantastic. It’s a must stay place in Paro. Moreover Tashi Penjore their manager was also extremely helpful. We just relaxed over the evening and went to the local market to see the things around.

Gangtey Palace Hotel, Paro Bhutan
Gangtey Palace Hotel, Paro Bhutan

A small market in the middle of the town was so organized. Demarcated parking, no stuff on the footpath, and neat and clean surroundings were beautiful. Most of the eatery/small restaurants are on the first floor and mostly run by the locals. Red rice and chicken are readily available as it is their staple food but if you specifically want chapattis you have to order beforehand and it will going to take time.  

View from Gangtey Palace Hotel, Paro Bhutan
View from Gangtey Palace Hotel, Paro Bhutan

TIGER’S NEST

One of the most visited places of Bhutan is The Tiger’s Nest as it is the sacred Buddhist temple complex located on a cliffside. We were excited and kids were overjoyed to know about the trekking to reach Tiger’s Nest but little did we know that it will be more difficult than Vaishno Devi. Steep trekking, no pavement, and many stairs, at last, made us realize that it is too far to go. Though less in distance we found it is more tiring because we were not mentally prepared as well.

Way to Tiger's Nest Bhutan
Way to Tiger’s Nest Bhutan

It takes around 4 to 5 hrs on an average for the round trek, plus one hour at the monastery. At the midway, you are served with a hot cup of tea and cookies. As you see the first glimpse of the monastery you don’t feel like taking your eyes off it. Generally, the visit is done in the first half of the day.

Later during the day, we were at leisure so we went around the city and enjoyed the Archery competitions which were going on and later enjoyed their local cuisine for the dinner at the market.

Tiger's Nest Bhutan
Tiger’s Nest Bhutan

LET’S HEAD BACK

With very different experiences we headed back. We started at 10 AM from Paro and reached Jaigaon at around 2Noon, had our lunch there, and reached Siliguri around 6 PM. Then we went to do tea shopping, yes being very close to Darjeeling, we got different varieties of tea.

We started early in the morning around 6 AM, this time we didn’t book anywhere as we were thinking we will book OYO rooms en route depending on where to stay. Since we had packed breakfast and other stuff to eat and North-East corridor drive we didn’t stop anywhere except for quick stopover for freshening up.

On our way back from Bhutan
On our way back from Bhutan

With the support of our kids that day we drove for more than 13 hrs nonstop and reached Lucknow. At night, we went around the city to enjoy the nightlife the specialty of Lucknow.

As we have to reach Delhi the next day which is almost 7.30 hrs journey we were relaxed. Our relatives stay in Lucknow so we thought that it would be a great opportunity to spend some time with them. So we reached their home early morning, felt like being home after so many days, and after having our breakfast we started for Delhi around 12 noon and stopped for late lunch at one of the highway restaurants and reached home around 9 PM.

FEW IMPORTANT POINTS NOT TO BE MISSED

  • Estimated time and actual time may differ because of uncertain circumstances.
  • Bhutan has very strict traffic rules, be very careful if you are driving yourself. There is no traffic light, and honking is a punishable offense in all over Bhutan.
  • It’s a very organized country, very simple and contended people.
  • Do carry enough food items as you do not get many Indian food options in Bhutan. In case you want chapattis you have to order beforehand and it takes time.
  • Do study well in case you are planning everything by yourself.
  • If you really want to enjoy do explore it.
  • Bhutan’s famous Tiger Nest is not advisable for elderly people.
In Bhutan
Bhutan

TO CONCLUDE OUR ROAD TRIP FROM DELHI TO BHUTAN

Our trip to Bhutan was unique in itself. A different country, its culture, such a long road trip, few ups and downs, scenic beauty, altogether it was an unforgettable experience. Writing only this much is never enough for a country like Bhutan. It is really a must-go place.

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